Physical Installation:  It's the same radio; put it back where it was.  Not always easy with certain cars, but the good news is that some sets are smaller -- with heat sinks or power supplies gone.  BIG recommendation:  before installing, note the locations of all the connectors -- original antenna jack, input/output jacks, Bluetooth microphone, etc.  Consider making your connections before setting the radio in place.  Bluetooth options have a jack marked PB -- ignore it.

By the way, this should go without saying but I suppose I need to say it -- we cannot be responsible if the radio is hard to install, or doesn't fit.  We did not build the car, and we make no physical changes to the size/shape of the radio aside from removing unnecessary components.  If you purchased the radio at a swap meet or wherever, and it is not the exact model for your car, please check for fit before sending it for conversion!

Wiring:  Wiring is similar to most newer stereos, with one notable difference:  there is no "Memory Wire" that connects to the battery.  Some installers habitually connect the blue wire to the battery and wonder why they can't turn the radio off!  Blue is switched power, for power antenna or accessories.  If you don't have these things, don't connect the blue wire to anything.  The Black wire is ground; yes the radio is grounded through the case, but this wire often improves performance, particularly in plastic-bodied cars like Corvettes.  Also, certain Corvettes, Cadillacs, and possibly others have an original power connector intact -- which means no red or orange wires.  The fuse is inside on these, but this is virtually never a problem.

Speakers:  Original speakers are generally not compatible with this, or any, new car stereo.  Why?  The biggest reason, most original speakers have one terminal grounded to the case.  Modern stereos have a DC voltage on the speaker wires, and an original speaker will short out the power amp.  The FMR Stereo has protection; you will not damage the radio but it will not work either.  Newer car stereo speakers are full-range, are 4 ohms (recommended), and are isolated from ground.  You can buy new speakers from any stereo store, or keep in mind that we have speakers designed specifically for older cars.  We'll gladly answer any questions you have.

Operation:  You need a volume control, a tone control, and a tuning knob.  Amazing, some radios don't have all of these!  Early 1950's Cadillacs don't have a tuning knob; you have to depend on the automatic tuning.  Some radios don't have a tone control but a switch.  All the way CCW, the volume is normal.  Click it over one notch and the volume becomes a tone control.  Click it back when finished.  Sometimes the tone switch is a pushbutton.  You'll have to try each position -- hey, I didn't design the radio!  Sets with NO tone adjustment will have a control on the back somewhere.

Balance/Fader, Bluetooth Pairing:  Once in awhile we get a call from someone saying he can't adjust balance or fader, or can't connect to Bluetooth.  These and other functions (in sets without balance/fader controls) are performed by flicking the volume or tone control twice in one direction.  It's easy; really it is.  However sometimes people mistake the volume for the tone, or whatever.  Sometimes they do it slowly, or not enough, or whatnot.  Below is a link to a video made by Aurora, that describes operation of the stereo, Bluetooth, and USB.  It shows exactly how to perform these functions.

Note that Balance/fader starts at 11:30 and Bluetooth pairing is at 18:00.

Note that the video describes the FMR-1.  If you have a newer FMR-2, Bluetooth pairing is slightly different -- flick the volume in the upper direction, not the lower.  For Bluetooth functions you'll get a voice response, while the version 1 gives you beeps.

USB-1, USB-2:  Once in a great while I get a call saying the flash drive doesn't work.  With early USB-1's and some early BTU-1's, sometimes you need to make a folder in the drive itself.  No need to put anything IN the folder, just make a folder.  This minor glitch was fixed as soon as it was discovered, so most USB-1's and all USB-2's don't have this issue.  But there's something else:  don't go hogwild with folders.  The USB-2/BTU-2 looks two generations deep for music.  If you make a folder called ~music~, it will go there and THEN two generations.  If you make a folder called tunes, click on it and find another folder called 1960's music, click on that and find another folder called The Beatles, click on that and find another folder called Abbey Road, this is a neat arrangement but unfortunately the USB adapter won't find your Abbey Road album.  Remove a couple of generations and it'll play fine.  The Manual is a bit misleading; it says you can have an unlimited number of folders, but it doesn't say is only goes two generations deep.



Aurora conversions are warranted for one year from purchase.

To be honest, the Aurora PCB's themselves hardly even NEED a warranty; failures have been virtually nonexistent.  So this is more of a warranty for service to the RADIO'S original components.  Occasionally a set arrives unexpectedly on our doorstep for "Warranty Service"; at least 90% of these work perfectly on the bench.  This is why, if someone calls for help, we stress checking the EXTERNAL wiring, speakers, power connections, first.  Remember, the radio has new, fully-rested components, but the vehicle is 50 years old!  When we DO discover problems, they are usually broken switches or controls, or mechanical tuning issues.

Something else to be aware of:  portions of the radio are original -- namely the controls, switches, and tuning mechanisms.  These are self-cleaning with use, but if it sits in the storage shed with the bumpers, transmission, lawn mower and snow shovel for three years, these components can dry out, corrode, and rust.  Then I get a call, "I'm just putting this radio in for the first time and it doesn't work properly!"  Best to put it to use right away, but if you must store it, bring it inside where it's climate controlled.

If you need to return the radio for service, we REQUIRE three things:  first, a note describing the problem with as much detail as you can.  DON'T say, "This is the set we talked about on the phone last month."  Second, for warranty coverage we MUST have your receipt (please keep your original; send us a copy).  "But you just did my radio!"  Maybe, but sometimes we rummage through the paperwork to find it was done four years ago.  Sometimes we get sets that were converted by someone else!  A receipt makes it much easier for us to trace.  Third, please follow our shipping instructions.  We can't count the number of sets that have been returned, poorly packed.  The set plays fine on the bench but the tuning shaft is broken in shipping.  Common sense prevails here!

There is also the disclaimer -- if the radio is damaged or modified without our consent it may void the warranty.  Also, we don't do sets converted by someone else, unless approved in advance.

Our goal of course is for you to enjoy your new stereo for years to come.  Following instructions always helps, but if we need to help get you going, we'll do what's needed.